Oh, a guest can get a proper cup of tea and, by day, lunch fare that includes tea sandwiches, salads and some of the absolute best soups around.

It's more than a tea room these days, though. Since November, the remodeled Anaba has been serving Asian-inflected entrées and appetizers at night - some elegant, some comforting - inspired by chef Gregg Des Rosier's trip to China. Wine, beer or a new sake cocktail made with cardamom, lime and chile-infused simple syrup is as likely to be on guests' tables as tea.

One likable aspect of the menu is its flexibility. Entrées can be ordered in half-portions, all under $10, or full portions, with miso soup or salad, under $20. A diner with a moderate appetite would be perfectly happy with a half-portion, or a table could order half-portions and appetizers en masse to share, tapas-style. More than once I thought, "There's this much food on the plate, for only $6?"

The food is a great value at Anaba, even more so when taking its quality into account.

The plates' appeal is apparent with the appetizers, all beautifully displayed. Eggs - hard-boiled, braised in the short ribs' sauce, dredged in fine, seasoned flour and deep-fried ($6) - perched on crunchy wisps of potato, with dabs of hollandaise and fried red bell pepper adding brightness under a frizz of fried green onion. Any rightful idea of heaven should include an endless supply of those potato wisps.

Thoughtful components enhanced other appetizers as well: A bed of kimchee - spicy Korean cabbage - ratcheted up the nutty flavor of two enormous black bean cakes ($6). Precise yellow and green stripes of Yin Yang sauce - lemon and chile - played harmony to the Japanese chicken tenders ($8). They're large, thin paillards of juicy chicken breast in panko crumbs, not tiny tenders.

And baked oysters (seasonal oysters at market price; Blue Points at $2 apiece the night I had them) were meaty even before the addition of fresh Chinese sausage, made in house.

When the menu lightens up for summer the first week in June, those appetizers will be staying, though some entrées will depart.

Anaba's entrées take their cue from various Asian cuisines, too, and then travel with the chef's fancies. Excellent Thai red curry shrimp ($8 half, $16 full) wore crisp coats of prosciutto, for example. Though the spicy and savory notes of the curry overtook the delicate shrimp, it was utterly delicious, with the sweet-herbal notes of matcha rice, and vegetables including baby bok choy and mushrooms on the side.

Beef short ribs ($9, $18) sported a nicely caramelized crust and tender interior under a glaze of orange marmalade, proof positive that citrus and beef were meant for each other. The heat of wasabi mashed potatoes was a reminder of how well horseradish and beef consort, too.

Other bowls looked simple but delivered complex flavors: lemongrass chicken ($7, $14) in coconut milk over rice; rice noodles with mushrooms ($6, $12) and walnuts in a savory, light, mushroom soy-based sauce with grilled tofu; that last dish is leaving the menu for summer.

While most of the dishes met or surpassed expectations, a couple tripped. The cilantro-lime broth with it was delicious, but Korean barbecue chicken breast ($6, $12) was dry when I had it, unlike other chicken preparations here; and though the Korean barbecue shrimp as a filling for fish fillets was a good idea, pedestrian pollock did the dish no special favors ($17).

Desserts didn't shrink from bold flavors. The spices of chai tea were infused in a silky flan ($4); even rich flourless chocolate cake ($5) held spiced notes. Large triangles of shortbread ($4) shot through with pungent cardamom and drizzled in pear-ginger syrup were delicious if a bit problematic to eat - try to force the fork through the firm cookie and risk rocketing it to the next table, or pick it up and get fingers sticky from syrup? A delicious quandary.

The building's rooftop greenhouse is a popular spot with diners, but the Asian-influenced aesthetic of the food is best reflected in the clean-lined 50-seat main dining room, located in the lower level of the Garden Room.

The remodeling that expanded the kitchen also added a small bar, with an inviting small area for lounging nearby. Stylish touches abound in this room of brick-red, white, golden yellow and black: glass tiles and display niches; thin, graceful wine glasses and modern dishes; substantial flatware and pretty chopsticks.

Room dividers carve up the space and lend a bit of privacy here and there. The room's center opens to the ground floor; an enormous chestnut vine, appropriately native to Southeast Asia, loops around the space.

And the stylish wire chairs have the look to match a garden room, but function takes a back seat to form: These chairs just aren't comfortable, particularly over the course of a leisurely dinner. But for that aspect, it's an enjoyable dining room; other chairs would only enhance it.

Bringing service to a consistent level would elevate the overall experience as well. Servers were always pleasant and knowledgeable about the food, and they could be quite good. But service sometimes needed more polish and better focus, and the table needed more attention.

Minus those occasional distractions, what's left is enjoyable food crafted with care, an admirable addition to diners' options for a night out.

ANABA TEA ROOM

2107 E. Capitol Drive, Shorewood, in the Garden Room shop's lower level

(414) 963-9510

www.gardenroomonline.com

** 1/2 (good to very good)

Food: ***

Service : **

Ambience: ** 1/2

Fare: Asian-inspired contemporary American

Atmosphere: Garden meets polished Asian sensibilities

Hours: Dinner, 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday; lunch and tea service, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday; limited menu, 3-5 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday

Prices: Entrées, $6-$9 half portions, $12-$18 full portions

Parking: On-street

Wheelchair access: Elevator to lower-level main dining room, rooftop greenhouse

Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover

Of special note: Vegetarian and vegan options; year-round greenhouse dining with full menu; no-smoking warm-weather rooftop patio; takeout; high chairs; private parties; local artists' work displayed; daily specials; free Wi-Fi

Reservations: Accepted

Noise level: Comfortable